Tech

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The following information is just a sample of the technical tips you'll read in each issue of the Association's publication, Mid-Engined Views.

California 914 buyers should be aware of some of the subtleties of the buying process. For the most part, 914s are sold by private parties, not dealers. Yes, from time to time a 914 will show up on a dealership lot, but not often. Leads to buying a 914 come from the local newspaper, AutoTrader flyer, or word of mouth. If you buy a 914, or any car, from a dealer, the paperwork process is taken care of by the dealer. On the other hand, it's Buyer Beware when you buy from a private party. The biggest trap to fall into involves getting your 914 through the SMOG check. It is the SELLER'S responsibility to provide the buyer with a SMOG certificate. The certificate cannot be more than 60 days old.

Many buyers blindly hand over the cash to the seller, get the title, go for a SMOG check, and discover that the car won't pass. This can be a major inconvenience at best and a nightmare at worst.

Let's back up a bit and go through the process step by step. As a buyer, you should request a SMOG certificate before you hand over the money to close the sale. As mentioned above, be sure it is less than 60 days old. It's as easy as that. If the seller doesn't offer a certificate, run away from the deal.

Without a certificate, here's what will happen. The DMV will require one in order to register your car. If you don't have one, you will be required to get one. Good luck if you go back to the seller and request one. To get a SMOG certificate, you'll have to take the 914 to an authorized SMOG Station. Current California laws state that all cars newer than 1973 models must have a SMOG check when there is a change of ownership and periodically thereafter. The only exceptions are for vehicles with two-cycle engines, engines under 50 cubic inches, diesel or electric power.

So, there you are without a certificate and the seller has moved to Argentina. Your next step is to get a certificate at a SMOG Station. For about $75 a technician will test your car. Part of the test is a visual inspection to assure all antipollution devices are still installed on the car and that no major changes have occurred - like carbs on a 1.8 liter engine. If parts are missing or modified, you are in deep trouble. You will have to restore all the missing pieces before a test can be run. on't even think about asking for a waiver.

If, on the other hand, all the factory pieces are in place, the test proceeds. If the 914 fails the test due to being out of tune or due to worn or inoperable parts, you will be liable for up to $450 worth of repairs in an effort to bring the 914 into compliance. If after spending $450 on a tune-up, you still fail, you can request a waiver from the state.

Waivers will not be issued if any parts on the engine are missing or modified in an unapproved manner. If your car is rated as a Gross Polluter, it will not receive a waiver. And finally, you can't get two waivers in a row. This means that if you get a waiver, you have two years to move the car out of state, sell it for parts, or bring it into compliance.

Welcome to California, where cars run clean and drivers don't need insurance.

In the last several issues, we've covered numerous aspects of the 914. In this issue, we continue with further 914 wisdom.

1. If a fuel injector fails to spray after sitting dry for a long period of time, immersing it in an injector cleaner overnight sometimes restores its operation. You can then click the injector with 12 volts of power to test it prior to installation.

2. Recommended tire size for the 914-6 are:

165X15, 195/65x15,

195/60x14, 205/60x14,

205/55x15, 185/70x15,

185/70x14, 205/60x15

3. Two lug bolts were used with 914 wheels. The stock lugbolt was used with the steel wheels. It measured 38mm (1.5 inches) thread length. The optional alloy lugbolt was used with the Pedrinni, Mahle, and Fuchs wheels. It measured 62mm (2.5 inches) thread length. Both bolts are 14x1.5 mm thread length. Beware! The two cannot be interchanged without dangerous consequences.

4. When replacing the 914 hood seal, it is advisable not to glue it in place as a seal secured in this manner holds water and will rust out the gutter. Instead, periodically remove the seal and clean the gutter area, touching up any rust areas. Even the most rust-free cars seem to develop rust in the headlight box gutter!

5. To quickly check the 1.7 and 2.0 fuel pump circuit, simply remove the top of the fuel pump relay (2nd one from the rear of the relay board behind the driver in the engine compartment) and push the top of the electromagnet. If the fuel pump operates, the relay board and fuel pump are good.

6. If the 914-6 ignition system is not firing and the control unit is not whistling, it is bad and needs to be replaced. Permatune manufactures a much cheaper unit that is a direct plug-in. The 914-6 ignition unit mounts on a plate and is bolted to the front of the battery tray.

7. It is fairly easy to convert the tire pressure actuated windshield washer system to the electric system used on the 914-6. First mount the 914-6 type electric pump (same as 911, 924, 944 pump) laterally beneath the washer bottle, cut the lower hose and connect the bottle side to "B and the other side to "D". Ground the negative motor lead to the chassis. Run the positive lead along the harness and into the car above the fuse block. Replace the '72-76 914 wiper switch with that of a 924. This has one extra terminal to provide power to the pump when the stalk is pulled back. On '75-76 914s it is a direct fit. On '70-71 models, a push button switch must be added. For '72-74 models, there is limited room in the steel column housing. Use the '72-74 white wire canal holder on the 924 switch and stagger the extra wire (red w/black) on top of the holder. Connect this wire to the routed positive washer motor wire.

Mini - Tech: Brake Rotors

A rotor can be turned any number of times until you reach the minimum thickness allowed. It's stamped on the rotor (0.374 for the 914). The average amount removed is .0010. A new rotor is approximately 0.974.

A good shop does a 'fast cut' and then goes over it with a 'slow cut' . Then comes the final finish which is a non-directional finish with 40-60 grit sandpaper in a figure 8 motion. This removes any fine threads of metal on the rotor. It also reduces the break-in period for the rotor. A final cleaning with a Brake Kleen type cleaner will remove any oil or film or metal particles that could reduce pad wear.

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